Lisbon’s (and Portugal’s) oldest restaurant is Tavares Rico, opened in September of 1784 in the city’s Chiado district. It’s also one of the world’s oldest and although its name has been shortened to just “Tavares,” most people still know it by its original name. It has maintained all the refinement from over two centuries ago despite a recent renovation, and the kitchen was taken over by one of Portugal’s most promising young chefs. Although the restaurant remains one of Lisbon’s best choices for the most sophistiated Portuguese dishes, the menu has also been given some contemporary international flavors served in a dining area that is a true Lisbon landmark. It’s a palatial space with an opulently gilded interior that is classified by the Portuguese Architectural Heritage Institute, but the outstanding service is much more relaxed than you’d expect at such a fancy place. Now is a perfect time to check it out, to understand what has made it survive for 225 years despite all the younger competition over the decades.