Who’d have thought that a year of bailouts, rising unemployment and budget cuts would turn out to be so good for Lisbon? Taking a look back at the 10 main news and trends of 2012, we can only hope and expect a 2013 that will be just as good or better, at least for Lisbon in general.

MYRIAD HOTEL

MAJOR NEW HOTELS
There were several hotels opening in the city, and not ordinary hotels. A couple of them are even true landmarks such as the Myriad in Vasco da Gama Tower, or the Cascais pousada outside the city in an old fortress by the sea. Another is the stylishly luxurious Fontecruz in the city’s main boulevard, while the always-buzzing Chiado district had not one, not two, but three new hotels — Mercy, Teatro and Lisboa Carmo — all featuring elegant interiors.

A NEW MAIN SQUARE
Rossio Square used to be the heart of the city, but that’s now moved closed to the river, to Comercio Square. The city’s grandest praça saw several new cafés and restaurants open under the arcades of its east wing, and this new leisure area with views of the river also has a club open on weekends (“Lust”) and a new cultural space, the Lisboa Story Centre.

NEW CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS
In addition to the Lisboa Story Centre which tells the history of the city through multimedia displays and recreates Lisbon’s different historical periods and atmospheres, there was the new Casa dos Bicos, the landmark house from the 1500s that is now home to the José Saramago Foundation remembering the Portuguese author who won the Nobel Prize.
Not very far is Martim Moniz, Lisbon’s most multiethnic neighborhood which was revitalized with a new weekend market and new kiosk cafés open every day, offering foods from all over the world.

NEW RESTAURANT TRENDS
Speaking of food, Lisbon’s restaurant scene is changing. In order to survive the economic crisis it had to be more creative so it went back to what never fails — the old traditions everyone loves. That meant “petiscos”, or what is often called “tapas” for international visitors, with restaurants now specializing exclusively in those small plates of food grandma used to make. Of course many of those are recreated and readapted to modern times, like the other new trend in the city — the new “tabernas.” What used to be simple family-owned places are now stylishly-decorated spaces but with the expected laid-back atmosphere.

BACK TO TRADITION
Restaurants weren’t the only ones looking at tradition as a means to escape the crisis. The best new shops also offered the best of “Made in Portugal,” including the first of the future chain of “Nata Lisboa”. Believing that “the world needs Nata,” this new café (there are currently two of them) specializes almost exclusively in Portugal’s famous custard tarts that almost no one can resist. Then there was the new P Chiado café offering the pastry specialties of Sintra in the center of Lisbon, the new Mercado 1143 which is a grocery store/market presenting only Portuguese products, and Loja da Burel with creative and top-quality handmade products from central Portugal. Finally, Portugal’s canned foods have become gourmet delicacies at yet another spot, the Can the Can restaurant in Comercio Square.

LISBON AIRPORT METRO STATION

AIRPORT METRO
The best Lisbon news for travelers was the extension of the metro which finally reached the airport. And the station is quite an attraction in itself, decorated with curious cartoon images of some of Portugal’s biggest personalities and cultural icons, making it an interesting new welcome to the city.

LUXURY AVENIDA DA LIBERDADE SHOPPING
Perhaps the biggest surprise of the year was the continuous opening of international luxury shops down Avenida da Liberdade. The luxury market is the only one booming during the current crisis, so there’s a new Gucci, a new Miu Miu, Officine Panerai, Emporio Armani, Hugo Boss… and a new Cartier and others will be joining them in 2013.

TOUS

RENOVATED CLASSICS
Another brand to open in central Lisbon was Tous jewelers which took over the city’s most beautiful shop, the former Ourivesaria Aliança in Chiado. Other classic spaces that had a makeover but kept much of the old look were Mimosa da Lapa, the 50s-style Sapataria do Carmo shoe store, Silva & Feijó, and the Old Pharmacy which is now a wine bar.

THE BAKERY INVASION
Petiscos and tabernas were not the only trends in Lisbon in 2012. Perhaps the biggest of all was the several high-profile bakeries opening in the center of the city. First was A Padaria Portuguesa downtown and in Chiado, then came Ratton next to Rossio Station, La Boulangerie with its French-style bread, and Tartine which makes a pastry that’s already a classic, the eggy “Chiado” cake.

SPECIAL ANNIVERSARIES
Speaking of pastries, 2012 was the 175th anniversary of Pastéis de Belém, and the 90th of the city’s most beautiful café, Pastelaria Versailles. Also celebrating was one of Lisbon’s most photographed icons, the Bica funicular which turned 120!

It had become extinct over the last couple of decades, but the Lisbon taberna is back, at least in name. Several new restaurants call themselves “taberna,” recalling the day when traditional home-style meals were served in family-owned eateries that were more than simple taverns. They were excellent value for money with no pretense, perfect for the entire family or simply for a glass of wine. After the trend of fusion cuisine and Wallpaper magazine-style interiors, Lisbon is now bringing back the taberna tradition. Here are a few places that try to do it:

1300 Taberna

1300 TABERNA
Rua Rodrigues de Faria, 103
Closed Sundays and Mondays
In a series of former warehouses you’ll find traditional Portuguese cuisine with a good dose of creativity, served in a spacious interior decorated with a mix of objects and styles.

TABERNA MODERNA
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 18
Closed Sundays and Mondays
This “modern taberna” wants you to share your meals so it serves the food in big dishes for everyone at the table to grab as they enjoy a glass of wine. Although the menu is in large part Portuguese, you’ll also find an equal number of Spanish choices.

TABERNA TOSCA
Praça de São Paulo, 21
Closed on Sundays
One of the first of the modern tabernas, it has a very contemporary interior but serves the traditional petiscos that Portuguese grandmothers used to make, accompanied by glasses of wine.

TABERNA DO CHIADO
Calçada Nova de São Francisco, 2A
It’s only a “taberna” by name. It’s a very contemporary space in the trendy heart of Chiado, although it incorporates some traditions such as wine barrels and long wooden tables where a mix of Portuguese and Spanish cuisine is served.

TABERNA IDEAL
Rua da Esperança, 112
Closed Mondays and Tuesdays
It’s one of the best places for “petiscos” and it was one of the first to bring them back as full meals. The interior looks older than it actually is, decorated with old furnishings.

TABERNA VINTAGE
Rua Monte Olivete, 63
Closed Mondays
This small space in the Principe Real neighborhood presents a list of traditional petiscos that are mostly an excuse to enjoy glasses of wine from a variety of labels and at various prices.

TABERNA DA RUA DAS FLORES
Rua das Flores, 103
Closed Sundays
A chalkboard lists the dishes of the day, always based on the freshest ingredients available at the market. It’s open throughout the day from lunch to dinner, making it also a stop for a light meal in the afternoon.

TABERNA PORTUGUESA
Calçada do Combro, 115
Closed Sundays and Mondays
Not far from the landmark Bica funicular is this small restaurant with reasonably-priced food. It follows old traditions, as does some of the decorative pieces.

OBIDOS

The Tree on Comercio Square
The Christmas lights are already up on the main streets of Baixa and Chiado, and the tree will be lit up in Comercio Square throughout the month of December. This year it will be 28 meters tall (over 90 feet) and will be a “high-tech” tree with real-time video projections of passers-by. It can be seen until January 6.

“Confeitaria Nacional”
Just a short walk from Comercio Square, through Rua Augusta, you’ll reach Figueira Square where you’ll likely find people lined up outside Confeitaria Nacional throughout the month. That pastry shop sells the city’s most famous Christmas cake, “Bolo Rei.” You don’t necessarily have to go for that — you can simply enjoy a warm cup of coffee or tea and observe the festive ambience.

Free Christmas Concerts
December is the month of free Christmas concerts in several of Lisbon’s churches, and this year they’re taking place from the 7th to the 22nd. The first one (on the 7th) is at 9:30 PM in São Roque Church, then there’s one at 4PM at Marcês Church on the 8th, also at 4PM in São Nicolau Church on the 9th, at 9:30PM in Estrela Basilica on the 14th, at 4PM in Graça Church on the 16th, throughout the day at the São Jorge Cinema on the 21st, and at 4PM in São Domingos Church on the 22nd.

The Christmas Village
Many travelers to Lisbon also choose to visit medieval Obidos and in December there’s a big reason for that. It turns into a “Christmas Village” with snowmen, ice skating, Santa Claus and family activities. It’s happening from December 7 to January 2nd.

The end of the summer brought a few changes to some of Lisbon’s best-known restaurants, from new concepts and chefs to new addresses:

MESON ANDALUZ
Travessa do Alecrim, 4 – Chiado
Tel: 214 600 659
For many years this was arguably Cascais’ favorite Spanish restaurant. It’s now moved to the center of the capital, down the hill from Chiado. The interior dates back to the 1700s with brick stone arches but you’ll likely prefer to sit outside on the terrace. Although the wine list includes Spanish and Portuguese wines, the food is all traditionally Spanish or what it advertises as “the best tapas in Lisbon.”

CHAPITÔ À MESA
Costa do Castelo, 7
Tel: 218 867 334
It’s one of the city’s most popular restaurants, always full of locals and tourists who are drawn to the spectacular views of Lisbon. It helps that it’s also just a short walk from the castle but the quality of the food has also kept it as a top choice in the city. Now it has a new chef (one of the most acclaimed after years at a few fine dining restaurants) and promises a more refined cuisine. That doesn’t necessarily mean more expensive, as this restaurant always had higher-than-average prices but more creative selections on the menu.

ESTÓRIAS NA CASA DA COMIDA
Travessa das Amoreiras, 1
Tel: 213 860 889
It was the first restaurant in Portugal to get a Michelin star and after 35 years in service, it recently closed for a major renovation. Its three different dining areas (including a courtyard) now feature an elegant combination of classic furnishings and more contemporary design, and offer different dining experiences. You may now go just for a glass of wine and a lighter meal, or for the full menu of contemporary Portuguese cuisine.

UMAI
Rua da Misericórdia, 78 – Chiado
Rua da Cruz dos Poiais, 89 – Bairro Alto
Tel: 213 958 057
A small space hidden in a corner of Bairro Alto close to São Bento Palace quickly became known as Lisbon’s best Asian restaurant. The owner is actually Portuguese but an experienced specialist in the foods of the East, mixing the delicacies of Thailand, Vietnam, China, Japan, India… That small space still exists but now focus on just Japanese food (yes, sushi but also more than that), and a bigger space has opened in Chiado. That’s where all the Asian specialties will now be served, offering fine quality at reasonable prices.

OLIVIER AVENIDA
Rua Júlio César Machado, 7
Tel: 213 174 105
Unashamedly pretentious, this restaurant was made to impress, both in ambiance and cuisine. Large teardrop chandeliers hang above a blingy décor that’s just had a small makeover. It’s now a combination of what it calls a mix of “French Romanticism and the New Gothic” but whatever that means it’s simply an excuse to attract those looking for a see-and-be-seen place where well-presented food is served. Late at night from Thursday to Saturday it becomes the “Avenida Cocktail Lounge” for after-dinner drinking and mingling.

If you’re coming to Lisbon any time soon, be among the first to experience the brand-new facilities of these special new hotels. They’re all in privileged locations, either by the river or in the very heart of the city in the most elegant district of Chiado. Also take advantage of the special online prices:

MYRIAD HOTEL
Lisbon’s tallest building is now a hotel. Built as a viewing tower for the World Fair in 1998, the monument was extended in 2012 and now allows visitors to Lisbon the opportunity to sleep literally on the river. The 176 rooms offer wonderful views of the Tagus and Europe’s longest bridge, and feature modern design and 5-star service. Facilities include indoor pool and spa, and conference center.

MERCY HOTEL
With 47 rooms, this is a luxury boutique hotel in one of the city’s best locations. It’s in the heart of the city in Chiado, and faces the Bairro Alto district with its many bars and restaurants. Guests are at the doorstep of Lisbon’s best shopping and nightlife, and within walking distance of many city attractions.
Elegant design welcomes you into the rooms, while a 6th-floor terrace will offer you magnificent views over Lisbon’s rooftops.

TEATRO B&B
This small but beautiful hotel stands next to one of several theaters of the classy Chiado district and that was its inspiration. Elements of classic theater mix with contemporary style to create a unique atmosphere in all of the rooms. For its ambiance and location, it sets the stage for a memorable stay in Lisbon.

What are “petiscos”? You could call them “tapas” but that would be Spanish. Petiscos are also small plates, originally served between meals, often to accompany a drink, but more recently they’ve become a trend in Lisbon’s restaurants which are turning them into full meals. Taking a note from the international success of Spanish tapas, there are now several restaurants specializing in petiscos, usually with a “everyone shares them at the table” concept. Here we present the ten places you should try:

ADEGA VICTOR HORTA
Rua Cais de Santarem, 6
Not far from the famous Casa dos Bicos is this “adega” (wine cellar) which produces its own wine and prepares petiscos in its wood oven. The kitchen opens to the rustic-style dining area, so you’ll leave smelling of smoke but it’s still one of the most recommendable dining experiences for those looking for a special night of local traditions.

TABERNA MODERNA
In addition to Portuguese petiscos you’ll also have Spanish tapas in a spacious room that also has a bar serving dozens of different gins. It’s quite a popular spot at the moment.

PHARMACIA
Rua Marechal Saldanha, 1
Facing one of the city’s viewpoints by the Pharmacy Museum, this restaurant’s décor is inspired by the pharmacies of the past. The menu lists a number of petiscos which young crowds seem to enjoy accompanied by Portuguese wines.

TABERNA TOSCA
In a neighborhood of small traditional family-run restaurants this one stands out for providing a contemporary touch to the traditional petiscos. You’ll want to avoid it if you’re vegetarian, but meat lovers will enjoy the place and the wines accompanied by cheese.

TABERNA DA RUA DAS FLORES
Rua das Flores, 103
Open throughout the day for a mid-day snack or a full meal, this space recalls the old local grocery stores and taverns. It’s a charming place for petiscos following some long-forgotten recipes.

DE CASTRO ELIAS
When one of Porto’s most successful chefs moved to Lisbon, he opened this place as his first restaurant. Located not far from the Gulbenkian Museum, it’s a good choice for a lunch of petiscos. Look for the clams with butter beans (“ameijoas com feijão manteiga”) which is a classic of the chef.

TASCA DA ESQUINA
The chef is one of the city’s most acclaimed but instead of fine dining the restaurant offers refined versions of traditional petiscos. Here the concept isn’t so much sharing but ordering them individually at surprisingly reasonable prices considering the quality.

TABERNA IDEAL
Rua da Esperança 112-114
This restaurant is packed every night by crowds sharing traditional dishes. It was the first one to revive the petiscos concept a few years ago and is still quite popular. It doesn’t take bookings so show up early.

PETISCARIA IDEAL
Rua da Esperança, 100
Almost immediately next door to Taberna Ideal, this one has the same owners and also serves a menu of petiscos which you are encouraged to share. The décor curiously mixes pages of old books, pots and pans. It also does not take bookings.

ARTIS
Rua do Diário de Notícias, 95
It’s not exactly a restaurant, it’s a wine bar, but it serves excellent restaurant-style petiscos. Although many go for the flaming chouriço (sausage), there are a few other choices to accompany the wines.

GoLisbon.com is again recommended in the Lisbon guidebook of the Lonely Planet series. The latest edition has just been published and this time GoLisbon is listed as a “useful website” for bookings “before you go,” saying the site is where you can “book central apartments or search for hotels” (and let’s not forget hostels, tours or the must-get Lisboa Card).
This new series of books is pocket-sized and the name illustrates that: “Pocket Lisbon.” It focuses on the top sights and local life.
It seems to have been very well researched by the author, although there are the unavoidable recommendations of a couple of restaurants that have closed as the book went to press. But there is always the internet and sites like GoLisbon for you to double-check the information.
The guide really was written quite recently, pointing to the hottest neighborhoods of the moment, including the “grim-turned-glam” Cais do Sodré that only in the last few months did it become the place to be at night.
A curious feature is a two-page guide to Baixa’s “Back in Time” shopping with “old-school specialty shops” that never make it in guidebooks.
Another curious choice is the ruined Carmo Convent as one of the top sights in the city, as well as the selection of Sintra’s National Palace, when Pena Palace is the most famous and most fantastic of the two.
Overall this is probably the best guidebook to those coming on a short break to Lisbon. It’s divided by neighborhoods, the maps are good and is filled with useful tips.
As for the introduction to the city, we couldn’t have said it better ourselves:
“A roller-coaster city of seven hills, crowned by a Moorish castle and washed in an artist’s pure light, Lisbon is cinematically beautiful and historically compelling. This is a capital city of big skies and bigger vistas; of rumbling trams and Willy Wonka–like elevators; of melancholic fado song and live-to-party nightlife. Edge, charisma, postcard good looks – Lisbon has the lot.”

Lisbon’s tourist card (the “Lisboa Card“) has been found to be one of Europe’s five best tourist passes according to a study by Eurotest. A total of sixteen cards from different European cities were analyzed, and Lisbon’s card was only topped by Vienna’s, Oslo’s, Ljubljana’s, and Amsterdam’s.

According to Eurotest, the Lisboa Card didn’t rank higher because it fails to provide priority admission but scored points for offering free access to public transportation (including the metro from the airport) and to a varied choice of attractions, including the main monuments and landmarks.

Many of these types of cards are often not worth the investment because they only offer small discounts and don’t include the main sights, but in Lisbon’s case it’s a must-get as it saves lots of money and time. Tourists have the option to buy it for as many as three days and have the opportunity to buy it online before they leave home, picking it up on arrival at the airport or at a tourist office.

At the bottom of the list were the tourist cards of Berlin and Paris.

 

What comes to mind when you are asked about typical Portuguese dishes? Bacalhau (cod), and the many different ways it can be prepared? Chicken with “piri piri” spicy sauce? Soups, grilled fish or cozido à portuguesa (a stew of different meats and vegetables)? Or a desert such as the tasty custard tarts called “pastéis de Belém”?

Well, today we present to you a simple sandwich that any local you care to ask would say is typically Portuguese – the “bifana”. The bifana is so popular in Portugal that McDonalds here have even launched the McBifana in recent times. So what is it? Basically a slice of pork steak in a roll of bread, the pork having been lightly sautéed, sometimes with garlic and/or other spices, so that the meat is warm and juicy. The bread roll is usually distinctly crusty, puffy and floury, and the whole thing is often eaten as a snack for lunch, sometimes with a bowl of soup.

The Alentejo region of Portugal is well-known for the quality and variety of its gastronomy, and it is said that the bifana originated here in the town of Vendas Novas. Most locals will tell you that the best bifanas are from this area, and supposedly they are a cut above those made elsewhere.

The Bifana de Vendas Novas then, is made from select pork fillet and is marinated and then cooked in a secret sauce. The bread roll is lightly toasted which, together with the special sauce and juicy meat, makes this a truly delicious and appetizing snack.

If you want to try the famous bifana from Alentejo, it’s no longer necessary to visit Vendas Novas, you can sample this tasty sandwich right here in Lisbon. Almost any café or bar will have bifanas on the menu, but if you want to try the one from Vendas Novas, go to the Bifanas de Vendas Novas kiosk in the Colombo mall in Benfica, one of Portugal’s largest shopping centres. Here you can try the original (and supposedly the best) bifana, together with other traditional dishes and soups.

Bifanas de Vendas Novas: http://www.bifanasdevendasnovas.com

The latest issue of Condé Nast Traveller magazine on sale now (October 2012 – Special 15th Anniversary Issue) lists Lisbon on the cover, introducing a 6-page article which highlights the Portuguese capital as a “Short Break” destination. With the title “Get Lost in Lisbon,” it suggests that readers “stray from the grand avenues” of the city which will make them “find the still-beating heart of a country that once ruled the world.”
The article focuses mostly on Lisbon’s faded glory, a city of “ravaged beauty” and with “the most absurdly beautiful railway station” the author has “ever seen.”
While there are a few imprecisions resulting from the author’s personal impressions as an outside visitor, the article makes a decent job at describing Lisbon’s atmosphere. It mostly goes up and down the “shaded alleyways” of the “twisted old quarters” and only makes one of the usual tourist stops, the “glorious Jeronimos Monastery.”
The photos that accompany the text include a concept store in Chiado, the Portas do Sol viewpoint, a cocktail being stirred at Bistro 100 Maneiras, and shops and eateries at Lx Factory.
Among the few recommendations are the Heritage Avenida and Lisboa Plaza hotels, as well as the new Cascais pousada.

“Step away from the majestic façades of imperial Lisbon and you’ll find a city with a poetic soul”
–Conde Nast Traveller, Oct. 2012