Most Europeans love coffee and cakes, but the Portuguese are the ones who
officially spend the most time and money in cafes according to a recent study.
In Lisbon (and all of Portugal), the coffeehouse is an institution. It has
been so since the turn of the century when many were the favorite haunts of
literary figures. Several hold on to that historical past with their
wonderful Art Deco decoration and have become popular tourist attractions.
Every café or traditional pastelaria (pastry
shop) serves croissants and pasteis de
nata which is the most popular Portuguese pastry. Many also serve
light meals along with the popular strong bica (espresso) or milky
galão (latte).
But if you also want to enjoy the outdoors as you drink, you'll find an
esplanada (pavement cafe) in practically every main street or avenue,
and there is usually a kiosk café standing by the several hilltop
miradouros (viewpoints) -- the one by Miradouro da
Graça is a good choice for a drink at sunset.
Below is a list with some of the best cafes in the city. We've highlighted
a few worth going out of your way to visit.
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A GoLisbon FAVORITE... For a riverfront drink:
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A GoLisbon FAVORITE... A quintessential Lisbon experience::
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BAR DAS IMAGENS
- Calçada Marquês de Tancos 1, Castelo/Alfama
The best part of this cafe is its terrace with a river view and the music emanating from the interior.
It is a great stop on the way up down from the castle (especially at sunset).
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A GoLisbon FAVORITE... For a chocolate croissant:
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BENARD
- Rua Garrett, 104, Chiado,
Phone: 21 347 3133
Located next to the famous Brasileira (see below), this is
another historic café, in business since 1912. It serves the most
mouth-watering freshly baked croissants in the city with jam or chocolate, which you can savor as you watch the streetlife of Chiado at a table
outside.
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BRASILEIRA
- Rua Garrett, 120, Chiado,
Phone: 21 346 9541
This is the city's most famous café, opened in 1905 with a magnificent art
nouveau décor and known for the intellectuals who stopped by on a daily
basis in the early 20th century. One of them was poet Fernando Pessoa,
whose bronze statue (perhaps the most photographed in the country) stands amid the clientele of both young and old.
CAFÉ DOS TEATROS
- Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso, 58, Chiado
This café-restaurant-bar combo next to a theater attracts local artists and a more sophisticated yet informal crowd.
The rather sophisticated atmosphere and the great juices and teas make this a great place for those looking for a relaxed
evening chatting with friends.
CAFÉ MARTINHO DA ARCADA
- Comercio Square, Downtown, Phone:
21 887 9259
Located under the colonnades of Comercio
Square, this is the oldest café in Lisbon, opened in 1782. It recalls
the days when it was a favorite haunt of Fernando Pessoa whose image is
painted on the wall. It also has an adjoining restaurant.
CAFÉ NICOLA
- Rossio Square, Downtown, Phone:
21 346 0579
Nicola was another of Lisbon's literary and political meeting points
when it opened in 1929. It maintains part of its past in its art deco
façade, but nowadays serves mostly as a tourist stop. A branch round the
back called Nicola Gourmet sells 25 varieties of coffee beans by the
bag.
CAFÉ NO CHIADO
- Rua do Picadeiro, 11-12, Chiado,
Phone: 21 346 0501
Located on a calm street of bustling Chiado next
to São
Carlos Theater, this café is also a restaurant serving salads, quiches,
and sandwiches (along with some great desserts), attracting local workers,
young intellectuals and media types. It offers outdoor seating in the
cobbled esplanade and an impressive range of Portuguese and foreign
newspapers.
CAFÉ VERSAILLES
- Avenida da Republica, 15a, Uptown, Phone:
21 354 6340
It is worth getting on the metro to the business district of Saldanha to
visit this turn-of-the-century café and have a sweet pastry, hot chocolate,
or coffee in its baroque interior.
Crystal chandeliers, carved wooden
panels, engraved mirrors, and stained glass decorate this grand space that
is still relatively tourist-free unlike the other historic cafes in the city
due to its uptown location.
Many locals consider it to have the best pastries in Lisbon.
CHÁ DA LAPA
- Rua do Olival, 8, Lapa, Phone:
21 390 0888
This sophisticated tea house with gilt furnishings just up the hill from
the Ancient
Art Museum has a limited selection of teas but serves some excellent
quiches, tarts, and cakes made in the premises.
CONFEITARIA NACIONAL
- Figueira Square, Downtown, Phone:
21 342 4470
When it opened in 1829 this pastry shop was considered one of the most
elegant in Europe. It has a bright mirrored interior with shiny marble
counters, and remains a wonderful place for some glazed pastries. It is
mostly famous for its Christmas time Bolo Rei, a traditional cake
first introduced by the French.
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A GoLisbon FAVORITE... For an afternoon tea:
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A GoLisbon FAVORITE... For a weekend brunch:
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DELI DELUX
(www.delidelux.pt) Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Armazém B, store 8,
Doca do Jardim do Tabaco, Alfama
Upon entering, you'll find a gourmet shop.
A café is behind those aisles of shelves with fine Portuguese and international products, and outside the window are tables on
an outdoor terrace facing the river.
This has become THE place in Lisbon for a weekend brunch.
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ESPLANADA
- Jardim do Principe Real, Principe
Real
This modern café under the trees of the peaceful gardens of Principe
Real is relatively new and attracts a young crowd. It is a great
meeting place for a chat over coffee, with comfy armchairs.
MAR ADENTRO CAFÉ
- Rua do Alecrim, 35, Chiado, Phone: 21 346 9158
Located between the riverfront (Cais do Sodré) and the central Chiado district,
Mar Adentro Café is a café-restaurant-lounge, serving original pastas, soups, sandwiches and a variety of drinks,
from tea to cocktails. The modern minimalist design of the interior invite you to enter, while the multi-language
newspapers and magazines available force a prolonged stay. An added bonus is the free wi-fi internet access for those
who choose to take their laptop. A recommended spot for brunch alone or a late-afternoon get-together.
PASTEIS DE CERVEJA
- Rua de Belem 15-17, Belém, Phone: 21
363 4338
This café in the historical Belém district
has a curious specialty - a sweet pastry made with beer. It originated in
the 1920s, and although not as legendary as the Pasteis de Belém
further down the street (see Antiga Confeitaria de Belem above), it
has remained popular through the decades. If you're curious to try it, be
prepared to feel more the taste of the almond paste than beer. It may not
be the most mouth-watering of pastries, but it's definitely something
different to try.
PASTELARIA SUIÇA
- Rossio Square, Downtown, Phone:
21 321 4090
This is one of the city's historic cafes, although you wouldn't be able
to tell from the renovated, modernist interior and pre-pay system. It now
serves mostly as a tourist café with tables on the pavement of both Rossio and Figueira
Square behind it but remains a good option for breakfast.
PAU DE CANELA
- Praça das Flores, 27-28, Principe
Real, Phone: 21 397 2220
This friendly café with outdoor seating is one of the most peaceful in
the city, located in a lovely square in the Principe
Real district. It is named after the cinnamon stick that is used by
locals to sweeten coffee although it also serves snacks such as quiches and
cakes, attracting a middle-class crowd.
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A GoLisbon FAVORITE...To relax in the afternoon:
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A GoLisbon FAVORITE...for a light meal... and chocolate muffin!:
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VERDE PERTO
- Rua Costa do Castelo 26-26a, Castelo/Alfama
Lights meals and fresh drinks or tea are served in a space that could also double as an art gallery.
Admire the artwork behind glass cases, and the view over Lisbon as soon as you step outside.
VERTIGO CAFÉ
- Travessa do Carmo, 4, Chiado
Decorated with mirrors and stained wood, this cafe may have a certain old-style feel, but the crowd is young and relaxed and it
serves light (many vegetarian) meals as well as teas. It is a great place to meet friends before going out at night for dinner or
drinks in Bairro Alto.