In Lisbon (and all of Portugal), the coffeehouse is an institution. It has been so since the turn of the century when many were the favorite haunts of literary figures. Several hold on to that historical past with their wonderful Art Deco decoration and have become popular tourist attractions.
Every café or traditional pastelaria (pastry shop) serves croissants and pasteis de nata which is the most popular Portuguese pastry. Many also serve light meals along with the popular strong bica (espresso) or milky galão (latte).

But if you also want to enjoy the outdoors as you drink, you'll find an esplanada (pavement cafe) in practically every main street or avenue, and there is usually a kiosk café standing by the several hilltop miradouros (viewpoints) -- the one by Miradouro da Graça is a good choice for a drink at sunset.

Below is a list with some of the best cafes in the city. We've highlighted a few worth going out of your way to visit.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE... For a riverfront drink:

À MARGEM Doca do Bom Sucesso, Belém This riverfront glass box between the Discoveries Monument and Belem Tower was designed by three architects and is a great place to have a light meal, freshly squeezed juice, salad, or sandwich at the tables outside as you gaze at the Tagus River.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE... A quintessential Lisbon experience::

ANTIGA CONFEITARIA DE BELÉM - Rua de Belem, 84-92, Belém, Phone: 21 363 7423 If you visit only one café in Lisbon, this should be it. It serves an average 10,000 Pasteis de Belém (custard tarts) a day (the record is a staggering 55,000), a specialty made with a secret centuries-old recipe. You can have them inside the large rooms covered with 17th-century tiles, or use the take-away service that provides special paper tubes holding half a dozen.

BAR DAS IMAGENS
- Calçada Marquês de Tancos 1, Castelo/Alfama
The best part of this cafe is its terrace with a river view and the music emanating from the interior. It is a great stop on the way up down from the castle (especially at sunset).

A GoLisbon FAVORITE... For a chocolate croissant:

BENARD - Rua Garrett, 104, Chiado, Phone: 21 347 3133 Located next to the famous Brasileira (see below), this is another historic café, in business since 1912. It serves the most mouth-watering freshly baked croissants in the city with jam or chocolate, which you can savor as you watch the streetlife of Chiado at a table outside.

BRASILEIRA
- Rua Garrett, 120, Chiado, Phone: 21 346 9541
This is the city's most famous café, opened in 1905 with a magnificent art nouveau décor and known for the intellectuals who stopped by on a daily basis in the early 20th century. One of them was poet Fernando Pessoa, whose bronze statue (perhaps the most photographed in the country) stands amid the clientele of both young and old.

CAFÉ DOS TEATROS
- Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso, 58, Chiado
This café-restaurant-bar combo next to a theater attracts local artists and a more sophisticated yet informal crowd. The rather sophisticated atmosphere and the great juices and teas make this a great place for those looking for a relaxed evening chatting with friends.

CAFÉ MARTINHO DA ARCADA
- Comercio Square, Downtown, Phone: 21 887 9259
Located under the colonnades of Comercio Square, this is the oldest café in Lisbon, opened in 1782. It recalls the days when it was a favorite haunt of Fernando Pessoa whose image is painted on the wall. It also has an adjoining restaurant.

CAFÉ NICOLA
- Rossio Square, Downtown, Phone: 21 346 0579
Nicola was another of Lisbon's literary and political meeting points when it opened in 1929. It maintains part of its past in its art deco façade, but nowadays serves mostly as a tourist stop. A branch round the back called Nicola Gourmet sells 25 varieties of coffee beans by the bag.

CAFÉ NO CHIADO
- Rua do Picadeiro, 11-12, Chiado, Phone: 21 346 0501
Located on a calm street of bustling Chiado next to São Carlos Theater, this café is also a restaurant serving salads, quiches, and sandwiches (along with some great desserts), attracting local workers, young intellectuals and media types. It offers outdoor seating in the cobbled esplanade and an impressive range of Portuguese and foreign newspapers.

CAFÉ VERSAILLES
- Avenida da Republica, 15a, Uptown, Phone: 21 354 6340
It is worth getting on the metro to the business district of Saldanha to visit this turn-of-the-century café and have a sweet pastry, hot chocolate, or coffee in its baroque interior. Crystal chandeliers, carved wooden panels, engraved mirrors, and stained glass decorate this grand space that is still relatively tourist-free unlike the other historic cafes in the city due to its uptown location.
Many locals consider it to have the best pastries in Lisbon.

CHÁ DA LAPA
- Rua do Olival, 8, Lapa, Phone: 21 390 0888
This sophisticated tea house with gilt furnishings just up the hill from the Ancient Art Museum has a limited selection of teas but serves some excellent quiches, tarts, and cakes made in the premises.

COLCCI CAFE
- Rua Ivens 59, Chiado
Enter the Colcci boutique and before or after you browse the trendy men's and women's fashions head to the café upstairs. In the pleasant, well-designed space you can have a meal at any time of the day (until 7PM) or relax with a 5 o'clock tea which may even include a cigarette in the separate smoker's area. No matter where you choose to sit you'll enjoy the good selection of salads, pastas, desserts, and freshly squeezed juices -- all as you watch the official supermodel of the brand Gisele Bündchen go down the runway on a plasma screen on the wall.

CONFEITARIA NACIONAL
- Figueira Square, Downtown, Phone: 21 342 4470
When it opened in 1829 this pastry shop was considered one of the most elegant in Europe. It has a bright mirrored interior with shiny marble counters, and remains a wonderful place for some glazed pastries. It is mostly famous for its Christmas time Bolo Rei, a traditional cake first introduced by the French.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE... For an afternoon tea:

CULTURA DO CHÁ - - Rua das Salgadeiras, 38, Bairro Alto, Phone: 21 343 0272 Tea lovers will be in heaven at this café with a two-page menu of all kinds of herbal varieties from all over the world. There are also various kinds of hot chocolate, shakes, and coffee. It has a fun a colorful décor in its softly lit interior, displaying works by local artists. It also serves some light snacks such as salads, quiches, and croissants, along with homemade cakes and pastries.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE... For a weekend brunch:

DELI DELUX (www.delidelux.pt) Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Armazém B, store 8, Doca do Jardim do Tabaco, Alfama Upon entering, you'll find a gourmet shop. A café is behind those aisles of shelves with fine Portuguese and international products, and outside the window are tables on an outdoor terrace facing the river. This has become THE place in Lisbon for a weekend brunch.

ESPLANADA
- Jardim do Principe Real, Principe Real
This modern café under the trees of the peaceful gardens of Principe Real is relatively new and attracts a young crowd. It is a great meeting place for a chat over coffee, with comfy armchairs.

KAFFEEHAUS
- Rua Anchieta, 3, Chiado
Located just steps from São Carlos Theater, this Austrian-owned and Austrian-flavored cafe also serves light lunches and dinners. It stays open until midnight, while on Friday and Saturday nights it extends until 2AM. On Sunday mornings it's a good option for brunch. Naturally, the menu lists Austrian dishes, with daily specials highlighted in chalk separately, on the cabinet behind the counter.

MAR ADENTRO CAFÉ
- Rua do Alecrim, 35, Chiado, Phone: 21 346 9158
Located between the riverfront (Cais do Sodré) and the central Chiado district, Mar Adentro Café is a café-restaurant-lounge, serving original pastas, soups, sandwiches and a variety of drinks, from tea to cocktails. The modern minimalist design of the interior invite you to enter, while the multi-language newspapers and magazines available force a prolonged stay. An added bonus is the free wi-fi internet access for those who choose to take their laptop. A recommended spot for brunch alone or a late-afternoon get-together.

PASTEIS DE CERVEJA
- Rua de Belem 15-17, Belém, Phone: 21 363 4338
This café in the historical Belém district has a curious specialty - a sweet pastry made with beer. It originated in the 1920s, and although not as legendary as the Pasteis de Belém further down the street (see Antiga Confeitaria de Belem above), it has remained popular through the decades. If you're curious to try it, be prepared to feel more the taste of the almond paste than beer. It may not be the most mouth-watering of pastries, but it's definitely something different to try.

PASTELARIA SUIÇA
- Rossio Square, Downtown, Phone: 21 321 4090
This is one of the city's historic cafes, although you wouldn't be able to tell from the renovated, modernist interior and pre-pay system. It now serves mostly as a tourist café with tables on the pavement of both Rossio and Figueira Square behind it but remains a good option for breakfast.

PAU DE CANELA
- Praça das Flores, 27-28, Principe Real, Phone: 21 397 2220
This friendly café with outdoor seating is one of the most peaceful in the city, located in a lovely square in the Principe Real district. It is named after the cinnamon stick that is used by locals to sweeten coffee although it also serves snacks such as quiches and cakes, attracting a middle-class crowd.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE...To relax in the afternoon:

POIS, CAFÉ (www.poiscafe.com) Rua São João da Praça, 93, Alfama Mismatched old furniture and a wide selection of international newspapers, magazines, and books invite you to lounge before or after a visit to one of Alfama's viewpoints or the castle. Looking very much like a living room, this is a cozy place for brunch (it opens at 11 in the morning) or for a light meal. The salads and sandwiches are excellent, the cakes delicious, and the lemonade a must. It is owned by a couple of Austrians, so expect to find several Vienna-inspired dishes on the menu.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE...for a light meal... and chocolate muffin!:

ROYALE CAFÉ (www.royalecafe.com) Largo Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, 29 Chiado A modern café in a simple yet refined space that includes an inviting courtyard. It has a laid-back atmosphere and serves organic light meals. The "royale chocolate" or muffin covered in dripping chocolate (to which may also be added a scoop of ice cream) is already legendary among frequent customers.

VERDE PERTO
- Rua Costa do Castelo 26-26a, Castelo/Alfama
Lights meals and fresh drinks or tea are served in a space that could also double as an art gallery. Admire the artwork behind glass cases, and the view over Lisbon as soon as you step outside.

VERTIGO CAFÉ
- Travessa do Carmo, 4, Chiado
Decorated with mirrors and stained wood, this cafe may have a certain old-style feel, but the crowd is young and relaxed and it serves light (many vegetarian) meals as well as teas. It is a great place to meet friends before going out at night for dinner or drinks in Bairro Alto.