ALCANTARA CAFE - Rua Maria Luisa Holstein , 15, Alcantara (close to Docas), Phone: 21 363 7176
$$$ A cool, fashionable designer restaurant opened in the 1980s in a renovated centuries-old warehouse, with a warm and intimate décor made up of red velvet, soft lighting, and steel pillars. Often frequented by local stars and executives, you too will be treated as a celebrity from the time you are greeted at the door. You then are presented with an inventive Portuguese menu with plenty of delicious options, but be warned that this quality of service and food is not exactly cheap.

BELCANTO - Largo de São Carlos, 10, Chiado, Phone: 21 342 0607
$$$ A yuppie crowd fills the wood-paneled dining room of this restaurant serving traditional Portuguese cuisine. You'll have some tough decisions to make when selecting from the superb wine list and desserts, but whatever you choose, you won't be wrong.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE... Lisbon's hippest restaurant:

BICA DO SAPATO - Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Armazem B, Doca do Jardim do Tabaco, Alfama, Phone: 21 881 0320 $$$ This warehouse conversion is the trendiest and most talked about of all Lisbon restaurants, gaining fame for its owner, actor John Malkovich (who also owns club Lux next door). The moneyed and the fashionable dine in a sleek interior with minimalist decor and stunning river views, choosing from a menu of modern Portuguese and other European dishes. It also has a stylish sushi bar upstairs with a lively atmosphere.

BOM JARDIM - Travessa de Santo Antão, 77, Downtown, Phone: 21 342 4389
$ Also known as "Rei do Frango," or "the King of Chickens," this rather rustic restaurant is famous for its spit-roasted chickens. They are served with fries, salad, and house wine for less than ten euros, making this one of the city's biggest bargains. Just the place for a quick, cheap meal downtown.

CASA DA COMIDA - Travessa Amoreiras, 1, Uptown, Phone: 21 388 5376
$$$ Housed in an old mansion, this is one of Lisbon's most acclaimed and expensive restaurants with master chefs who create delicious Portuguese dishes. Sit around the courtyard and savor some of the finest food in the city.

CASA DO ALENTEJO - Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 58, Downtown, Phone: 21 346 9231
$$ A 17th century Moorish palace is now home to a restaurant that is worth a visit if only to admire the extravagant decoration and the courtyard. The menu is traditional Portuguese, with both seafood and meat dishes.

CASA DO LEÃO - St. George's Castle, Alfama, Phone: 21 887 5962
$$ Situated within Saint George's Castle's walls, this restaurant has breathtaking city views and a beautifully tiled interior. In such a splendid setting, it is not cheap, but is surprisingly not outrageously expensive either, especially when you get top-rate traditional Portuguese food.

CERVEJARIA TRINDADE - Rua Nova da Trindade, 20, Chiado, Phone: 21 342 3506
$$ This 19th century beer house-restaurant is renowned as much for its traditional Portuguese cuisine as for its lovely tile panels depicting the seasons and the elements. It is very popular with both locals and tourists, who quickly fill the dining room and outside patio. Arrive early or expect to stand in line for a while.

DOCA 6 - Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazem 6, Docas, Phone: 21 395 7905
$$ This is the most noteworthy eatery in Docas, and a great place for lunch. Appreciate both the cuisine and the views from the first floor.

FREI CONTENTE - Rua de São Marçal, 94, Principe Real
$$ Traditional Portuguese dishes are served in a romantic, cozy setting consisting of low, yellow lighting and candles.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE... The best seafood:

GAMBRINUS - Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 23-25, Downtown, Phone: 21 342 1466 $$$ If you're looking for Lisbon's best seafood restaurant, this is it. It was established more than 70 years ago and is also a beer house, which explains its name borrowed from the god of beer. A varied menu with exotic flavors is served in a wood-paneled dining room.

LISBOA À NOITE - (www.lisboanoite.com) - Rua do Norte, 68, Bairro Alto, Phone: 21 346 8557
$$ This restaurant still has ring chains and a well from the building's former incarnation as a stable for horses. Until recently it was also a fado house, but is now only devoted to food, with bright orange walls decorated with pictures of Lisbon at night. The menu consists of Portuguese meat and fish dishes.

MALMEQUER BEMMEQUER - Rua de São Miguel, 23-25, Alfama, Phone: 21 887 6535
$$ A traditional, reasonably-priced family-run restaurant in the middle of the Alfama maze and with a charming Moorish décor. The food is tasty and the fish is always fresh.

NARIZ DO VINHO TINTO - Rua do Conde, 75, Lapa, Phone: 21 395 3035
$$ The original owner of this restaurant was the editor of a culinary magazine, which ensured the high standard of cooking. The varied menu consists of traditional dishes prepared with carefully selected ingredients (you can even choose which olive oil you want to try), and the wine list is epic. Food and wine lovers will want to make an effort to check it out.

NECTAR RESTAURANT - WINE BAR - Rua dos Douradores, 33, Baixa, Phone: 912 633 368
$$ A former fabric warehouse was transformed into a modern and relaxed restaurant/wine bar. Sample a selection of wines served at the appropriate temperature along with Portuguese cheeses, hams, and salads. For a complete meal, the menu consists of mostly Portuguese dishes, with a varied mix of international flavors, from India to Brazil.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE... A Lisbon Classic:

PAP'AÇORDA - Rua da Atalaia, 57, Bairro Alto, Phone: 21 346 4811 $$$ Passing through the velvet curtains and seeing the crystal chandeliers immediately suggests that this is one of the most expensive choices in Bairro Alto -- but it is also one of the city's leading restaurants. A favorite among most locals, it takes its name from a specialty dish -- a soupy bread and seafood mixture. The wine list is monumental, and the homemade chocolate pudding is an excellent way to finish your meal.

SACRAMENTO - Calçada do Sacramento 40/46, Chiado
$$ Just steps away from Carmo Church, this restaurant offers a sophisticated yet relaxed ambience. It also has a cool bar under bare-brick arches.

SANTO ANTONIO DE ALFAMA - Beco de São Miguel, 7, Alfama,
$$ This is perhaps the most unique and sophisticated restaurant inside the Alfama maze. The menu offers a wide variety of options, especially of starters and desserts. There's a nice leafy terrace outside, while inside the walls are lined with black and white pictures of film stars.

SÃO JERONIMO - Rua dos Jeronimos, 12, Belém, Phone: 21 364 8797
$$ Located close to Jeronimos Monastery, this attractive restaurant offers particularly good fish dishes worth their higher prices. The dining room has dimmed lighting and a modern décor, and there is also a large bar.

SINAL VERMELHO - Rua das Gaveas, 89, Bairro Alto, Phone: 21 346 1252
$$ A young crowd fills this restaurant with an upbeat atmosphere. It serves simple, delicious meals of fresh seafood and grilled meat.

SOL MAR - Rua das Portas de Santo Antão, 108, Downtown, Phone: 21 342 3371
$$$ This famous seafood restaurant with huge tanks filled with lobsters and ornate fountains has been a favorite since the 1950s. It's a little touristy but will keep seafood lovers happy.

SUA EXCELÊNCIA - Rua do Conde, 34, Lapa, Phone: 21 390 3614
$$$ This well-established restaurant has a reputation for the high standards of its cuisine made up of imaginative Portuguese and spicy African dishes served in an intimate atmosphere. The owner is known for reciting the menu and wine list in different languages to every newcomer.

TÁGIDE - Large Academia das Belas Artes, 18-20, Chiado, Phone: 21 342 0720
$$$ A pricey and rather formal restaurant but with tantalizing regional dishes and sweeping views of Lisbon from the light and airy dining room. You'll want to book in advance and request a window seat.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE... Lisbon's oldest:

TAVARES - Rua da Misericordia, 37, Chiado, Phone: 21 342 1112 $$$ Opened in 1784, this is Lisbon's oldest restaurant. It is also one of its most expensive, with a luxurious, opulently gilded interior. But the atmosphere is surprisingly relaxed in such a palatial setting, and the food is first class. A true Lisbon experience.

A GoLisbon FAVORITE... World-class:

TERREIRO DO PAÇO (www.terreiropaco.com) - Comercio Square, Downtown, Phone: 21 031 2850 $$$ Conde Nast Traveller magazine listed this restaurant, located under the colonnaded arcades of Comercio Square, among the world's top 50. Modern renditions of ancient Portuguese dishes by an award-winning chef and a superb wine list justify the distinction.

TOMA LÁ DÁ CÁ - Travessa do Sequeiro, 38, Bairro Alto/Bica
$ This excellent value restaurant is located in an alley between the Bica Elevator and Miradouro de Santa Catarina. It's very informal and relaxed, yet the food (mostly traditional Portuguese dishes) is of high quality.

VIA GRAÇA - Rua Damasceno Monteiro, 9B, Graça, Phone: 21 887 0830
$$$ One of the best city views and fine Portuguese food await you in this restaurant off the tourist path.

VIRGULA - (www.restaurantevirgula.com) - Rua da Cintura do Porto, 16, Armazem B, Baixa
$$$ Located by Cais do Sodré train and ferry station, this reputable restaurant has large glass windows facing the river. The menu is based on traditional Portuguese dishes.

XL - Calçada da Estrela, 57-63, Estrela, Phone: 21 395 6118
$$$ This restaurant has a loyal following among the local rich and famous for its tasty Portuguese dishes, great desserts, and extensive wine list.