An ancient medieval town, mysterious stones, and one of Europe's wildest regions
Surrounded by a long fortified wall, Bragança retains a well-preserved
medieval center. It is the isolated capital of the province of Tras-os-Montes,
an area known for its remoteness and antiquity.
Scattered around the province are some 200 "porcas" or "berrões," granite
pigs or boars dating from the Iron Age, some up to 2m (6ft) in length.
Their intended purpose is not known, although most likely they were involved
in fertility cults practiced by the local Celtic tribes.
Many of them now decorate village squares, as is the case in Bragança,
used as the base of a Gothic pillory standing by the 12th century
castle.
The 33m (108ft)-high castle keep contains a Military Museum
displaying medieval suits of armor and weapons.
Among the former residents of the castle was Dona Leonor, wife of Dom
Jaime, Duke of Bragança, who imprisoned her inside on suspicion of adultery.
He later had her murdered in the town of Vila
Viçosa, and today one of the castle's towers has the name of "Torre da
Princesa," or "Princess Tower," in her honor.
By the castle is a clutch of whitewashed houses, the 18th century Church
of Santa Maria
(with a colorful painted ceiling depicting the Assumption of the Virgin),
and the unusual 13th-century Domus Municipalis, probably the oldest
town hall in Portugal and one of the few surviving Romanesque civic
buildings in Europe.
To the north is the appealing Church of São Bento with a
Moorish-style vaulted ceiling, and to the west is the Church of São
Vicente, where Dom Pedro and Inês de Castro were secretly married in
1354 (see our Coimbra page
for their tragic love story).
Further west is the 16th century Bishop's Palace, now the distinguished
Abade de Baçal Museum. Its collection includes Celtic art from the
surrounding area, ancient stone porcas, tombstones, milestones,
paintings, and local costumes.
Bragança makes a good base for visitors exploring the Montesinho Natural
Park, one of the wildest regions in Europe.
Time has stood still in this area, with many paths dating from the
Visigothic empire (many of the villages such as Fresulfe and Sernande still
bear distinctly Germanic names), and wolves, foxes, and golden eagles among
the around 9,000 people scattered around small villages.
The villages of RIO DE ONOR and MIRANDA DO DOURO on the border
with Spain have been the subject of many anthropological studies and provide
a fascinating insight into the local way of life. The people have developed
their own dialects mixing Portuguese and Spanish, and ancient traditions
still flourish such as the use of bagpipes in the folklore, Celtic
associations similar to those of Scotland and Ireland. It is also not
uncommon to see women washing clothes in the river or donkeys as a means of
transport.
Bragança's tourist office provides maps, brochures and advice.
Regular buses run to Vila Real,
Chaves, Viseu, Porto, and Lisbon. Those who choose to
stay overnight, have the choice of a pousada nearby, with views to
the castle.
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Places Nearby
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Vila
Real - A delightful baroque palace
Chaves
- A spa town with a 2-millenium-old Roman bridge
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