BUCACO TOURISM GUIDE
A grandiose palace amid a magical forest
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Buçaco (or "Bussaco" in its old spelling) is a magical forest with around 700 varieties of trees. Many of them were brought to Europe by Portuguese explorers from Africa and the New World, including 300 exotic species such
as Himalayan pines and Mexican cedars.
It was once a monastic retreat, and dotted throughout the forest are secret
grottoes, waterfalls, fountains, and tiny hermitages. Women were banned from
this "garden of Eden" by papal decree to keep the monks free from
temptation, and anyone who destroyed a tree was threatened with
excommunication.
On the exterior façade of a 17th century Rococo gate to the forest (the
"Coimbra Gate"), are two marble plaques displaying the text of these two
papal bulls.
One of the major battles of the Peninsular War took place here, when the
Duke of Wellington defeated Napoleon's troops in 1810. Outside the forest
wall, a small museum dedicated to the Peninsular War explains the
Napoleonic invasion through engravings, maps, uniforms, and weapons. Just
above it is an obelisk standing as a memorial to the battle.
In the center of it all is the neo-Manueline Buçaco Palace, one of
Europe's most grandiose smaller palaces. It is now one of the country's top
hotels and one of Europe's oldest. Commissioned by King Carlos in 1888, it
began as a royal hunting lodge and was only used once by his son Manuel II.
He stayed at the palace with French actress Gaby Deslys, with whom he had a
brief romance before his exile in 1910. Soon after that, in the years
between the two world wars, it became one of Europe's most fashionable
addresses for socialites as a luxury hotel.
Today it is still going strong, with many visiting Buçaco just to see this
extravagant structure. It is an architectural fantasy, with influences from
Lisbon's Jeronimos Monastery, Venice's Doge's Palace, and Bavaria's
Graustark Palaces, consisting of galleries with flamboyant arches, armillary
spheres, turrets, and spires.
Inside is a grand marble staircase and walls of tiles by prominent artists
depicting scenes from Portuguese history, including the Battle of Buçaco. The most spectacular room guests can sleep in is the queen's suite, with a
private parlor, dressing room, marble bathroom, and dining room.
The palace sells maps of the area, and is open to non-guests for meals or a
drink. The restaurant has a carved Gothic ceiling and Manueline terrace,
fine cuisine, and an impressive wine list, including the excellent quality
Buçaco label.
Immediately to the south of the palace are the ruins of an old Carmelite
monastery. Only the cloisters, chapel, and a few cork-lined cells remain, along with a
plaque recording that Wellington slept inside after the battle.
To the west is a giant cross, the Cruz Alta, a phenomenal viewpoint,
while to the north is the Fonte Fria, a spring cascading
down 144 steps into a flower-ringed basin.
Nearby is the spa town of LUSO, from where Portugal's most popular
brand of bottled mineral water comes from. The spa (open to casual
visitors) is claimed to be beneficial to the treatment of a wide range of
conditions, from arthritis to liver and kidney problems. Don't miss the
19th century Salão de Chá, a tea house with wonderful Art Nouveau
décor.
Buçaco can be seen on a daytrip from Coimbra,
from where buses to Luso or Viseu detour
through the forest, stopping at the Buçaco Palace, taking about one hour.
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Places Nearby
Coimbra
- Old university town; a tragic love story
Conimbriga
- Roman village; Iberia's best preserved Roman mosaics
Figueira
da Foz - The country's longest beach; exceptional Delft tiles;
casino fun.
Aveiro
- Colorful boats down attractive canals; a princess-saint; fine porcelain; a
lovely fairytale castle
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AROUND LISBON
AND TAGUS VALLEY Alcobaça Arrábida Azeitão Batalha Cascais Ericeira Estoril Fatima Leiria Mafra Nazaré Obidos Palmela Peniche Queluz Santarém Sesimbra Setubal Sintra Tomar |
ALENTEJO
Beja Castelo de Vide Elvas Estremoz Evora Marvão Mértola Monsaraz Vila Viçosa ALGARVE Albufeira Faro Lagos Sagres Silves Tavira Vila Real de Santo António Vilamoura |
BEIRAS (CENTRAL PORTUGAL)
Aveiro Belmonte Buçaco Coimbra Conimbriga Figueira da Foz Guarda Monsanto Piodão Serra da Estrela Viseu PORTO AND DOURO Amarante Lamego Porto |
MINHO
Barcelos Braga Gerês National Park Guimarães Ponte de Lima Ponte da Barca Viana do Castelo TRAS-OS-MONTES Bragança Chaves Vila Real THE ISLANDS Azores Madeira |