A romantic royal palace outside Lisbon
It is definitely worth taking a half-day trip to Queluz from Lisbon or Sintra for
its magnificent royal palace.
The town is an unremarkable suburb, but its Versailles-like palace is the
country's finest example of Rococo architecture. Lying on the Sintra train
line, it is reached after a 10-minute walk, turning left out of Queluz-Belas
station and following the signs. The pink palace is located in a cobbled
square, with a statue of Queen Maria I and the former Royal Guard building
(now serving as a pousada) facing it.
It was first built in the 17th century as a manor house for King Pedro
II, but was later enlarged and transformed into a graceful palace. Today it
is well preserved and open to the public, while also often accommodating
state guests and dignitaries (former U.S. presidents Eisenhower, Carter,
Reagan, and Bill Clinton all stayed or dined here).
In the summer months it also hosts classical music concerts (part of the
Sintra music festival) as well as equestrian shows.
One of the highlights inside is the grandiose but elegant Throne
Room, once the scene of splendid balls and banquets, lined with mirrors
and adorned with crystal chandeliers and gilded statues.
Beyond is the Music Room, where the queen's orchestra ("the best in
Europe", according to English traveler William Beckford) performed operas
and concerts.
Also noteworthy is the royal bedroom, a square room with stunning
murals of Cervantes' "Don Quixote," a domed ceiling, and a floor decoration
in exotic woods giving it a circular appearance.
The Ambassadors' Room is just as outstanding, with a marble floor and
a ceiling painting of the royal family attending a concert.
English and French-style furniture, fine porcelain, and Arraiolos carpets
fill the other rooms.
The original kitchen is now a restaurant called Cozinha Velha,
and retains the old stone chimney, arches, and vaulted ceiling. It is
celebrated for its desserts, many of which are based on ancient convent
recipes.
The beautiful formal gardens overlooked by the Rococo façades are
adorned with elaborate statues and fountains with themes of classical
mythology. The azulejo-lined canal is where the royal family went
boating.
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CURIOUS FACT
Queen Maria I, resident of the palace in the late 18th-century, was an
intelligent and brave woman, but went hopelessly mad when her son died from
smallpox in 1788. Visitors to the palace were often dismayed by her
agonizing shrieks as she suffered visions and hallucinations. She never
recovered and her younger son João eventually took her to Brazil after the
French invasion in 1807.
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Places Nearby
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Sintra
- Enchanting and mysterious atmosphere; romantic palaces; Europe's
westernmost point.
Lisbon - The
Age of Discovery, World Heritage monuments, museum treasures, vibrant
nightlife
Mafra -
One of Europe's biggest palaces, the building that bankrupted the nation
Cascais
- Playground of nobility; picturesque resort; a surfer's paradise
Estoril
- The inspiration for James Bond; Europe's largest casino;
spectacular golf courses
Ericeira
- Traditional seaside village; surfing mecca, superb seafood
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